Pure nature chair

DIY pure nature chair
A unique item of furnishing

With its distinctive design this chair will give your room that certain flair and fit naturally into every TV or reading corner.

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Relaxation is the name of the game. Lovers of wood and natural materials will find the rest and relaxation they deserve in this self-constructed natural armchair and by using timber from sustainably managed forests they will achieve sustained relaxation. With its distinctive design this natural chair gives rooms that certain flair and fits naturally into every TV or reading corner. But first it has to be made, and that requires both DIY skills and practice. A unique and timeless home accessory will reward those who have this craftsmanship.

  • Easy
    Easy tools
    When you want simplicity.
  • Universal
    Universal tools
    Versatility for more.
  • Advanced
    Advanced tools
    When you seek the best.

Required power tools:

Other accessories:

  • Screw clamps, set square
  • Wood drill bit (4 mm) for pre-drilling
  • Wood drill bit (10 mm) with depth limiter/limiting ring
  • Angle bevel (for measuring and transferring angles)
  • Dowel marker

Required materials:

  • Willow rods* or willow panels*
  • Pieces of square timber
  • Wood glue
  • Rods
  • MDF board
  • Scrap wood
  • * Available from natural timber dealers or on the internet; if using willow panels, be sure to remove the connecting wire before beginning the project.

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1 bunch/ 3

1x bunch of willow rods* (approx. 90 cm long) or 3x willow panels* (90 cm x 90 cm)

90 cm

90 cm




Pieces of square timber (2 pieces of wood each for the side panels and 1 piece of wood for the cross struts)

250 cm

3.8 cm

3.2 cm




Wood glue




1 m

1 cm




MDF board for the plan outlines and to help with the gluing

100 cm

100 cm


Scrap wood to help with the gluing


Marking out and cutting the wood to size

1 - Marking out and cutting the wood to size
Marking out and cutting the wood to size

Ambitious projects like the natural chair require elaborated planning. So the first thing you need to do is print out the construction plan. The outlines are then marked out on the MDF board using a set square and pencil. The joints between the individual parts are numbered on the construction plan. Note these numbers on the MDF board too. You will need to work with the greatest precision because this step is the basis for all the others. The scale, the angles and the numbering must be absolutely exact if the finished chair is to be cleanly worked.

The two pieces of square timber for the first side section are now sawn to size, starting with the longest part, the strut for the foot of the chair. Mark the dimensions from the construction plan on the square timber and saw off the surplus wood at a right angle. Continue with the next longest strut and carry on until the remaining wood or the second piece of square timber is used up and all the parts have been cut to size.

Then saw from another piece of square timber the four cross struts as per construction plan.

Tip: To define the plans, write the number from the construction plan about 2 cm from the end of each part so that it isn’t lost when you do any further sawing.


Establishing the angles

2 - Establishing the angles
Establishing the angles

2 - Establishing the angles
Establishing the angles

The next step is to establish the right angles for the joints between the individual struts. This is where the angle bevel comes into its own. It is placed at the joints between the individual struts and aligned to the angle marked up on the MDF board (see photo). When the angle is set precisely, tighten the screw so that bevel and angle do not slip out of position.


Cutting the bevels to size

3 - Cutting the bevels to size
Cutting the bevels to size

The bevels marked on the wood must now be sawn precisely. The Bosch PCM 8 S mitre saw with slide function is the right tool for this job. Its laser is a perfect sawing aid to ensure precise cutting. Once all the bevels have been sawn to shape, position the finished struts on the MDF board as per construction plan.


Cutting the dowels to size

4 - Cutting the dowels to size
Cutting the dowels to size

In the next step the dowels are cut to length: Cut the wooden rods into lengths of about 5 cm to ensure a strong connection.


Drilling the dowel holes

5 - Drilling the dowel holes
Drilling the dowel holes

The square timber, sawn into shape, is now made up into a side section. First pre-drill two holes for the dowels on each joint with a thin drill bit and then open them up with a 10 mm drill bit and a depth limiter set at about 2.8 cm. This is especially easy to do with the Bosch PSB 18 LI-2 Ergonomic. When drilling and screwdriving, your hand will automatically fit snugly in the grip recess, transferring the power optimally. Drill the holes in the centre of the wood. Continue with the dowel holes for the cross struts that will later join the two side sections, doing so at the points marked in the construction plan.


Gluing together the square timber

6 - Gluing together the square timber
Gluing together the square timber

The going now gets tough. The pieces of square timber must now be glued together as accurately as possible. Put the prepared parts together with the dowels and a little glue. Tip: A do-it-yourself gluing aid works wonders for stability.

Remove the surplus glue and leave the side section to dry for about two hours. For good looks, sand the transitions flush and chamfer the edges.

While the first side section is drying, repeat steps 1 to 7 for the second side section. To ensure that the dowels for the cross struts are in exactly the right place, mark the holes in the first side section with a dowel marker and transfer the position to the counterparts.


Assembling the chair

7 - Assembling the chair
Assembling the chair

The chair is now slowly taking shape. The four cross struts are placed in their marked positions on the chair as per construction plan: two on the backrest, one on the seat and one to stabilise the foot. They are all fixed to the side sections with dowels and wood glue and then clamped to let the glue set.

Finally, the frame is filled with willow rods to provide a stable seat and backrest. If required, the wicker can be cut to the right length first, using the Bosch PCM 8 S.

Tip: If the chair is to be used outdoors, it is advisable to treat it with a wood preserving varnish.

Job done. Fetch a glass of wine and a good book and lean back in comfort. There is no longer any reason for not taking it easy this evening – unless a second pure nature chair is urgently required.

Legal note

Bosch does not accept any responsibility for the instructions stored here. Bosch would also like to point out that you follow these instructions at your own risk. For your own safety, please take all the necessary precautions.


Service Hotline

For questions on our After Sales Service:


:00966 (0) 12 692 0770 - Ext 433


:00966 (0) 11 409 3976 – Ext-30/34/39


:00966 (0) 13 833 9565

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