Casual writing desk

 
Smart furniture
Casual writing desk

Who needs a desk with large drawers and shelves nowadays? It’s cooler to have a writing desk.

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Introduction

Difficulty level

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Bulky drawers and compartments are a thing of the past. In an age when everything is designed to be more compact, our writing desk offers enough space for your laptop and a few notepads. This desk is all you need to add a stylish look to your study.

It’s what’s on the inside that counts: Two partitions running along the worktop are combined with a removable lid to form a sealed cable duct. The space between the cover on top and the table top below is used to attach the desk discreetly to the wall.

The glued joints illustrated here require some experience. Screw joints are easier to use instead, but will be visible from the outside.

The following construction guide is for 20-mm-thick beech glued laminated timber board. You must adapt the list of materials accordingly if you opt for other materials or material with a different thickness.

Ask your DIY store or carpenter to cut the required boards to size.

  • Easy
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    When you want simplicity.
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  • Advanced
    Advanced tools
    When you seek the best.

Required power tools:

Other accessories:

  • Set of wood drill bits
  • 25-mm Forstner bit
  • 68-mm holesaw
  • Countersink bit
  • 8-mm wooden dowels
  • Wood glue, cloth, sponge
  • Sanding paper, grits of 120–240, sponge
  • Folding rule, soft pencil, rubber, pencil sharpener
  • Wood stain, fine spray system or fabric roll
  • Trestles

Required materials:

  • Beech glued laminated timber board
  • Flat head screws
  • Wood stain and paint

Show detailed material list

Item

pcs

Designation

Length

Width

Thickness

Material

0

1

Worktop

800 mm

600 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

1

2

Sides

350 mm

100 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

2

2

Partitions

760 mm

80 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

3

1

Front cover

760 mm

120 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

4

1

Rear cover

760 mm

40 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

5

2

Suspension rails

750 mm

35 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

6

1

Lid

755 mm

145 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

7

2

Lid rest

760 mm

40 mm

8 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

8

2

Legs

955 mm

80 mm

20 mm

Beech glued laminated timber

9

6

Flat head screws, 3 x 17 mm

10

approx. 11

Flat head screws, 4 x 50 mm

11

approx. 12

Flat head screws, 4 x 35 mm

1

Drilling the dowel holes in the partitions and covers

1 - Drilling the dowel holes in the partitions and covers
Drilling the dowel holes in the partitions and covers Drilling the dowel holes in the partitions and covers

First place the partitions and the covers together at the angle at which they will later be glued together, with each partition held below a cover. Using your pencil, mark the location of parts with a triangle so that you always know what goes where.

For this type of corner or T-joint, we strongly recommend using a drill template and marking points, or dowel templates as they are known. Measurements and markings alone will not be sufficient to position dowel holes precisely enough so that they lie exactly flush with each other.

Using a drill and 8-mm wood drill bit, drill three dowel holes in the facing edge of each of the partitions, and copy their positions with dowel templates to the bottom of the covers. While drilling the dowel holes in the surface, place the centring tip of the drill bit on these marked points.

A drill template is a device that is attached to the workpiece by means of a screwing mechanism. This device guides the drill bit vertically through a metal collar directly into the wood. If you are not using a drill template, at least make sure that you always drill the holes first in the front side. This is where the drill is less likely to penetrate the wood at an absolute right angle. If you drill into the surface, you increase the likelihood of achieving a right angle because you are working against the grain.

A dowel template is a metal pin with marking point. You insert this pin into the holes on the front side so that you can transfer their positions. To do this, you press the pre-drilled workpiece in position so that its edges are exactly flush with the surface of its counterpart.

Dowel tips:

Use a wood drill bit to drill holes with the dowel radius into the two pieces that you want to join. The two drilling depths should amount to the dowel length plus 2 mm. For this reason, you should ideally use a drill bit with a centring tip and a depth stop: the latter is a locating stop ring with a setscrew that is fixed to the required drilling depth on the drill bit. Never drill a hole that is deeper than two thirds of the material thickness. Biscuit dowels are more practical than the wooden dowels described here. Essentially made out of compressed wood dust, these dowels swell once glue is applied to the machined slots, thus forming rock-solid joints. However, there is a drawback for someone who only assembles furniture occasionally: these biscuit dowels mean you have to use a biscuit jointer, a power tool specifically designed for this system.

2

Gluing the partitions and covers to form angles

2 - Gluing the partitions and covers to form angles
Gluing the partitions and covers to form angles

Apply glue to the dowel holes and the glue surfaces of the partitions and then insert the wooden dowels. Once you have applied some glue to the holes in the covers, join all the pieces to form angles. Clamp the joints using clamps.

Important note

Use clamps to press all of the glue joints carefully until the glue has dried. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. While pressing the joints, use pieces of scrap wood as buffer blocks to distribute the pressure evenly and avoid leaving unsightly pressure marks on the workpieces. Wipe away any excess glue immediately with a damp cloth.

3

Fitting the lid rests

The lid of the cable duct rests loosely along narrow strips fitted to the inner sides of the partitions. When closed, the lid thus combines with the covers to form a practical compartment.

Pre-drill three holes into these lid rests, and countersink each of these on the side facing the centre of the duct. Align these rests with the angles as illustrated in our diagram and fit them in place using a cordless screwdriver and screws (3 x 16 mm).

Tip for screwing together two wooden parts

In the piece where you want to insert the screws first, always pre-drill a hole that is 0.5 to 1 mm larger than the screw diameter; the hole should be countersunk for the screw head. In the piece that you are going to drill second, pre-drill a hole that is always 1 mm smaller than the screw diameter.

4

Drilling the dowel holes in the angles and side panels

4 - Drilling the dowel holes in the angles and side panels
Drilling the dowel holes in the angles and side panels

Position the glued angles made of partitions and covers and the two sides of the carcass – covers facing downwards – onto your work surface in the way they will be fitted together later. Using your pencil, mark all components with a triangle so that you always know what goes where.

Now repeat the procedure described in step 1: Drill the dowel holes in the sides of the angles, insert the dowel templates and use them to transfer the positions of the drilling holes to the side panels. Make the holes in the side panels using a depth stop, as described.

5

Gluing the angles and the side panels to the carcass

5 - Gluing the angles and the side panels to the carcass
Gluing the angles and the side panels to the carcass

When gluing the carcass, follow the procedure described in step 2. It is particularly important that you press glue joints carefully with clamps until the glue is fully dried. At the same time, you should use a carpenter’s angle square or set square to check that everything is at right angles and adjust the position of the clamps, if necessary.

6

Setting the cable passage into the table top

6 - Setting the cable passage into the table top
Setting the cable passage into the table top

An opening of at least 45 mm must be made in the table top in the base of the duct to allow the cables and any connectors to pass through the cable duct between the partitions. Ensure that this opening is positioned as close as possible to the side and to the wall, but it should of course be located in front of the side panel and the rear partition.

7

Fastening the carcass and table top together

7 - Fastening the carcass and table top together
Fastening the carcass and table top together

Place the table top with the best side facing upwards on trestles and arrange the desk carcass on top. Using a pencil, draw the outlines of the side panels and the partitions on the board. In the centre of these outlines, mark three hole positions for screwing the table top to the side panels and two hole positions for the screwing it to the partitions.

Make the holes in the table top using a drill and a 4-mm wood drill bit and countersink the holes from below. Now place the desk carcass, with the covers facing downwards, on the trestles and arrange the table top (with the bottom facing upwards) on top. You can now assemble the table top easily using a cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 50 mm). Refer to our tips on screwing together two pieces of wood in step 3.

8

Cutting the cable openings in the lid

8 - Cutting the cable openings in the lid
Cutting the cable openings in the lid

The cable duct is sealed on top with a lid placed between the covers and side panels. Cut three chamfered openings in the rear edge of the lid so that you can lift the cable duct and raise the cables from the cable duct at the required location.

First use a pencil to draw these openings on the lid, in accordance with the measurements in our drawing. Then use the 25-mm Forstner bit to drill the chamfered ends. Now make these holes using two jigsaw cuts from the rear edge. The handle and cable opening is now complete.

9

Making the suspension rails

9 - Making the suspension rails
Making the suspension rails

Cut the two suspension rails from a board measuring 750 mm in length and 70 mm in width. To do this, adjust the saw blade of the circular saw to 45° and split the suspension rail board in lengths. One of the suspension rails thus created is later fixed to the wall with the pointed side upwards, while the second suspension rail is screwed to the rear partition of the desk carcass, with the pointed side facing downwards.

Pre-drill three holes in each of the suspension rails and countersink these holes on the broader surface. Fit one rail to the desk carcass using a cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 35 mm).

10

Making the legs

10 - Making the legs
Making the legs

Cut the legs (originally measuring 955 mm in length) at an angle of 20° or 70°. The quickest way of doing this is with a mitre saw, which you can simply use to adjust the angles. A jigsaw will also do the job: Use a pencil to mark the cuts on the wood, secure the leg board with clamps on your work surface so that the end that you want to work on is protruding over the side, and cut the upper and lower end at the required angle.

11

Fastening the legs and carcass together with screws

11 - Fastening the legs and carcass together with screws
Fastening the legs and carcass together with screws Fastening the legs and carcass together with screws

Place the carcass with the table top fastened below onto your work surface so that one side panel projects slightly over the table edge. Now secure one leg to the side panel using clamps in the way that you want to assemble it later, and mark the position on the side panel with a pencil. Do the same with the other carcass side.

Pre-drill the side panels four times for each leg. Countersink the holes from the inside. Now secure the legs again using clamps and fit them from the inside with a cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 35 mm). For this process, refer again to our tips on screwing together two pieces of wood (step 3).

12

Sanding the wood surface

12 - Sanding the wood surface
Sanding the wood surface

Take time to prepare the surfaces so they are in the best working condition possible before starting assembly.

First buff all edges with sanding paper with a grit of 120 or 180 at a 45° angle to create a small bevel. Use your sander to sand all visible surfaces in the direction of the wood grain, first with coarse sanding paper (grit of 120, 180) and then with fine sanding paper (grit of up to 240).

Afterwards rub the surfaces with a damp sponge to wipe off the dust. Some loose wood fibres may protrude while the wood is drying. You can remove these with sanding paper with a grit of 180. The wood is now ready for surface treatment. Little tip: Make sure that the sanding paper is sharp enough to remove the wood fibres properly, not just flatten them.

13

Staining the surface

13 - Staining the surface
Staining the surface

Staining refers to the process used to colour the wood. The wood stain can be applied with a fine spray system. After the stain has been applied, the surface of the wood remains unprotected until wax or paint/varnish is applied.

First read the manufacturer’s safety and handling instructions thoroughly. Make sure the room you are working in is well ventilated and not used for smoking, eating or drinking.

You should change the paint tank if you want to apply another material with your fine spray system in the next step.

Tip for staining

Always work on vertical surfaces, starting from the bottom and moving to the top. Otherwise, since wood stain has low viscosity and the wood surface absorbs it quickly, the wood stain could trickle down and form lap marks that cannot be removed.

14

Painting the surfaces

14 - Painting the surfaces
Painting the surfaces

Pour the paint into the paint tank and dilute it if necessary with water. Using a test board, adjust the spray jet at the nozzle and the paint flow at the setting wheel. The spray jet can be set to horizontal or vertical for surfaces and tapered for edges.

Now apply a thin first layer of paint. Start with the edges and then paint the surfaces using even, parallel strokes.

During this process, wood fibres may appear (as they may have already during the rinsing phase). You can remove these after the paint has dried by using sanding paper with a grit of 220 or 240 in the direction of the grain.

For the second coat, use the same base as you did during the priming stage. This time, you can apply a slightly thicker coat of paint. Start again with the edges and then work on the surfaces using even, parallel strokes.

Tip for painting

A wide range of paints are available, of various types and price categories. The main criteria in choosing a paint should be its workability, the technical equipment you have at home, and the surface quality and durability you require. Ask for advice at a specialist retail outlet. If you are not an experienced painter, we recommend that you practice beforehand on a sample piece. You will achieve the quickest and best result with acrylic paints. It is particularly quick and easy to apply these water-dilutable paints using a fine spray system.

15

Done!

15 - Done!
Done!


Legal note

Bosch does not accept any responsibility for the instructions stored here. Bosch would also like to point out that you follow these instructions at your own risk. For your own safety, please take all the necessary precautions.


 

Service Hotline

For questions on our After Sales Service:

Jeddah:

:00966 (0) 12 692 0770 - Ext 433

Riyadh:

:00966 (0) 11 409 3976 – Ext-30/34/39

Dammam:

:00966 (0) 13 833 9565

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